Trousers made bigger / smaller

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I altered 3 pairs of trousers in different ways to improve the fit.

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This black pair were: too flared, too wide in the waist.

These trousers were given to me for free.  The label on them has gone but they were from New Look, fairly thin fabric with some elastane content.

They are a basic pair of go with anything black work trousers.

The first step was a simple matter of reducing the flare via the inside leg seam, from the knee downwards.

I reduced the waist by increasing the seam at the middle of the back,  a fairly easy job because there was nothing to get in the way.20170118_1002371

When  I do an alteration like this, I always worry about going too far and making the thing too small,  because at work I want to stay comfortable, so the amount I took off the waist was quite modest.  It proved to be insufficient so I added some extra loops for the hooks (loops were made from shoe laces), so the fastening has two settings.

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The second grey pair were from an old style jumble sale.  At the end of the sale there was a ‘fill a bag for a pound’ offer and these trousers were one of the components of my £1 bag.  They are Sainsbury’s own brand, ‘Tu’, and the fabric is synthetic herringbone style with no stretch whatsoever.

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This pair did nothing for my ego because when I tried them on, I found they were:

Too flared, no problem, fixed in the same way as the black ones.

Too long, easily fixed by cutting off the excess and hand hemming.

Too tight in the leg above the knee.

Hmm,   As this fabric was strong and not going to fray I reinforced the serged seams by sewing along the base of the serger stitch and then unpicking both the main inside and outside leg seams to give me a few millimetres of extra room, which made the fit much better.

photo of leg seam before and diagram of after:

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Unfortunately the waist was also too small.

Here I used a trick which always seems like magic to me:

Unpick most of the waistband, only leaving the edges near the zip opening still attached,  increase the waistband  size by up to 2 inches using, fabric cut from the trouser hem, re-attach the waistband and somehow even non-stretchy fabric on the  trouser will accommodate up to 2 inches of extra waist room.

It looks a bit scrappy but it works, and I always wear tops that cover the waistband so no-one will see the scrappiness.

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The  third better quality ‘per una’ from Marks and Spencer 97% cotton 3% elastane.  I paid very little, something like £1.50 from a local charity shop, and they didn’t look worn at all.  I decided to take a chance on the rather odd colour, described as ‘deep magenta’.

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They were too long, easily fixed, and too big in the waist, which I also thought would be easily fixed.

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The waistband was complicated by pockets and decorative straps with buttons, but I successfully unpicked it, made it a bit smaller with some folding, made the trousers smaller by increasing the centre  back seam, and re-attached the waistband, job done, or so I thought.

When I wore these trousers on a short test run to the shops, they were not right.  The waist to crotch length was too long.

I messed about with the crotch seams but nothing worked.  A google search revealed that the waist to crotch length needs to be reduced from the waist end.

This pair of trousers sat in my refashion pile for several months.  I considered turning them into a skirt, then I took them out and bit the bullet and unpicked the whole waistband and re-pinned it to the top of the trousers.  I didn’t cut any fabric off the top of the trousers , but instead of half a centimetre of trouser top being sewn inside the waistband,  the top of the trousers now goes to right to the top of the waistband, taking a couple of cm off the waist to crotch length, and making the waistband somewhat stiffer than before.

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I also added a couple of extra shoelace loops like on the black pair so I could fasten them tighter.  I hope that finally does it, what I thought would be a fast fix turned into a something of a saga.

Bonus feature :  Use it up and wear it out in 2017

It is my intention not to buy any more clothing for 1 year.

This was meant to be a new year resolution but when I thought back, I hadn’t actually bought anything new since 15th Oct so my year starts then, and I would rather call it a ‘use it up and wear it out’ theme than a resolution.

The point of this pledge is not to save money, or the planet, but to reduce the size of 0f my wardrobe by wearing out and then discarding what I already have, and if I do really need something I will buy it.

When I think about this, there are actually only a handful of clothes that I can remember throwing away in the last 12 months because they were worn out – some underwear, a couple of pairs of trousers and t-shirts, but not much.  Does modern clothing deserve more credit than its ‘fast and disposable’ image?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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