Silk blouse refashioned bigger

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My friend gave me this 100% silk blouse which was cut on the bias but there was zero ease around the bust area.

The sizing in this blouse was XL but the dart was really small and I can not imagine are many XL women for whom the dart would be correctly positioned.

My finger is pointing to the point of the dart

I decided the fix would be to add a little more ease down the side seams, increase the size and position the bust dart.

Un picking the side seams and original dart was straight forward enough but revealed there was very little side seam allowance.

I made a new dart by pinning using a mirror. The bias cut fabric meant that the two sides often looked asymmetric when I was trying on, so I just had to trust to measuring to get it right.

I selected some lace trim to add into the side seam. The lace only added around 2 inches of ease in total because I had to use some of the original seam allowance to join it, at least with the bias cut there was no fraying.

I also added some different lace at the front bottom edge to make up for the fabric taken up by the larger dart. I suppose the side lace is meant to be functional and the bottom lace is meant to be decorative.

finished garment, no more pulling around the bust
Here’s the lace, and you can also see the new bust dart is in the right place

It’s been a while since I’ve done a refashion like this so felt the pressure was on to produce something with a good finish as I’ve done a lot of sewing and gained experience since.

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