Refashion

Logo t-shirt fix

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It was with something of a sentimentally heavy heart that I pulled this t-shirt out to refashion.

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I was given it when working as a swimming judge in 2006 and my qualification has now lapsed, so the reality is its a t-shirt I have never worn and had largely forgotten about why am I keeping it?

There were 3 problems

The length, the neck, the logo.

It was a cheap thin cotton type shirt made from a tube without side seams.

I cut off the neck band which immediately released the neckline to a much better size.

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About 5cm was also cut off the hem to reduce the length, and re-hemmed using a twin needle.

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The strip cut from the hem made an ideal new neckband.

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This scarf, a long time in my refashion pile was such a bright colour it could only go with something very plain.  It was the exact right size to cover the logo and 3 sides of this slippery fabric were already hemmed.

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I considered gathering the scarf in some way to use more of its length but rejected this idea and just sewed on over the top of the logo.

I cut a length of scarf to cover the logo, hemmed the edge and sewed it in place.

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There was something not quite right. I probably hadn’t sewn close enough to the edge of the scarf.

Trialling some fancy stitches to see if there was something suitable to fill the gap I selected one, realising that if this looked wrong there would be no unpicking it, too many threads.  Learning from past mistakes I know that some of these stitches can pucker up fabric which is a bit thin.

Thankfully it looked better, it sort of nailed the scarf to the t-shirt.

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Finished t-shirt, I cut the t-shirt fabric from under the scarf panel.

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Its maybe not my best make but still wearable.

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Bonus feature: tailor’s clapper

Looking around the internet I noticed a feature about ironing seams using a tailor’s clapper – something I had never heard of, it’s basically just a shaped piece of wood.

In a nutshell, the article said that if you sit the clapper over a steamed crease for a few seconds the crease will be very long lasting, works for all fabrics.

This sounded too good be true but easy to test.  I didn’t have a piece of wood but I do have a lot of books, and tested it out with the slippery scarf seam and a medium sized medium weight book.  I can happily report that it worked like a dream.

Try it next time you’re ironing a crease.

 

 

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Birthday present dress to skirt refashion

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Bad hair day

 

I was given this dress as a present because I  had asked for charity shop items to refashion.

It’s per una by Marks and Spencer, a label I was quite fond of in the days when I mostly went to shops to buy new clothes, fabric was 100% linen, made in Turkey,   I really liked the colours.

The fit wasn’t too bad and I considered just shortening it but the before photos convinced me otherwise.

My daughter had said when she handed it over ‘I thought you could make it into a skirt’

I must confess I am a little reluctant to be told what to do, even by my own family, and wondered if I could attach a new top section and keep it as a dress.

However, the current design consisted of several bias cut panels, sewn together in a sort of twisted arrangement, which produced a nice drape.  Changing the top section may have been too much to handle, so a skirt it was.

The first cut was to lop off the top section. I made this high because the second cut was another strip to make a waistband.

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I cut another strip off to make the waistband out of, choosing where to cut by where the seams holding the panels together had fallen.

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There is a skirt which I use as a ‘gold standard’ for length and waist measurements.

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By laying the two side by side it was clear that the waist needed to be a little smaller, but how to sew the seam exactly? Wishing to minimise any effect on the width and drape of the hemline, I used the full adjustment at the waist and tapered to meet the original seam halfway to the hem.

I cut a piece of thin cotton with no stretch to use as interfacing for the waistband and inserted a zip and button closure into one of the side seams.

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The zip wasn’t an invisible one.  I like to use the method here  which involves sewing the zip in with the seam closed then ripping it open to expose the teeth.

Finished skirt:

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And a couple of photos of it being worn on a recent trip to Milan.

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This jasmine covered wall smelled wonderful

 

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Taking a break from sightseeing in Milan

 

Polka dot dress to trousers

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This dress was a birthday present, I had asked for charity shop items to refashion.  One daughter presented me with this Marks and Spencer  dress.  Having someone else choose something for me added to the challenge and the fun.

The fashion pages tell me that polka dots are in this year so these navy and white ones were a good choice.

The 100% viscose seemed to be perfect for some lightweight summer trousers.  The fabric frayed heavily though,  needing generous seam allowances.

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I used this pattern, given free with a magazine as the basis for my make, adapting it to be a side zip fasten with a flat front.

It was a good pattern to adapt,  the trouser legs being composed of 4 parts and the centre seams making fit adjustments easy.  (I made a toile shorts version to check the fit)

The skirt of the dress had large expanses of fabric but, not enough to accommodate all the pattern elements without some piecing together.

After spending some time struggling with the logistics of how it was all going to work, I  started cutting the most important pieces from the best bits of fabric to see where that led me. Polka dot matching wasn’t always possible.

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Even after harvesting every possible part of the dress, including the sleeves, there was still not quite enough – trousers take a lot of fabric.

To make up the deficiency, and for the waistband, I used some Dutch wax which I have had for ages and has already featured in many previous projects basically because there was so much of it in the first place.  I made the waistband quite big and added a small amount of light elastic, comfort is important to me!

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Introducing the second fabric introduced the complication of fabric symmetry.

There were so many pieces involved I approached it by cutting one leg then matching the second leg up with that.

The front and back legs were different as you can see here.

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I liked this pattern and will be using it again soon.  The trousers are indeed lightweight and also very comfortable.

 

 

No time to waist

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I bought this skirt on a whim for £7.99  from Oxfam, a bit pricey if you ask me, but that’s Oxfam for you.

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It was originally from the mid range ZARA brand, I liked the colour and the style, it looked in pretty good nick in this year’s colour of purple.

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There was one problem, it was in a size smaller than I normally wear, but I knew I could fix that.

I would normally wash anything on my normal cycle before working on it but the laundry instructions for this garment were, shock horror, ‘do not wash’ – silk,  should have known.   Well here was a dilemma,  only a few days before a trip on which I wanted to wear this skirt.  It didn’t smell, there were no obvious stains so I decided to work on and wear it as is ie unwashed.

The style was flared panels with a secondary flared band at the hem.  Easy to make bigger just by shortening the skirt and therefore enlarging the waist a couple of inches.

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Deconstructing a commercially produced garment is quite interesting.  The waist of this skirt gave up various items of piping cord and binding tape as I continued to unpick it, they will be going in my stash.

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In the end, weary of unpicking just cut through the top 1.5 inches of the top of the skirt, outer and lining fabric combined, but unpicked around the zip.  This immediately unleashed the unruly nature of the slippery silk fabric and lining.  The new waist was turned under by about 1cm a couple of times to secure it.

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The skirt ended up a bit shorter but I am a bit short so this wasn’t a problem.

The lining ended up sticking out from under the hem a bit, so turned it under to solve.  Those commercial manufacturers don’t miss a trick,  I could see that the stich length was time and thread savingly longer on the hem of the lining.

The zip was tucked under and finished with a couple of hand stitches and it was ready to go.20180313_105329

 I wore the skirt for the planned trip to Florence

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Bonus Feature

Next to my fabric stash is a smaller but longstanding yarn stash.  I’ve had some of this stuff for 20 years and asked myself ‘if not now, when?’

So I’ve been through a bit of a knitting phase and produced this from some brightly coloured 100% cotton yarn bought a long time ago.

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Skinny trousers made bigger

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I have 2 daughters and each gave me a pair of trousers to refashion.

The first (patterned) pair had a broken side zip.  I tried these on hoping I could just replace the zip and they would be good to go.  Unfortunately they were too small. They were from New Look, 71% viscose, 26% polyester, 3% elastane, made in Cambodia.  The label was actually stuck in the zip.

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The second (plain black) pair were a good fit but looking a bit worn.  They were from George at Asda, and the fabric label was unreadable due to extensive washing but I would say they were mainly cotton with a similar elastane content to the other pair.

I decided to use a full length strip from the black pair to make the patterned pair bigger, using the ‘tuxedo’ method.

 

I have noticed that this kind of style is a common design feature in RTW, I even have some RTW running trousers myself which are like that.

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I had never used this method before and did a bit of research before giving it a try – useful information was here

I unpicked the recipient trouser side seams but just cut a strip from the donor trousers from the side seam area.  The strip was 3.5 inches wide, to include seam allowances. This was just a bit of a guess but as both fabrics had some elastane content I guessed it would work.

I don’t have a serger but I do have a reasonably good regular machine.  Its a Janome décor computer and has 50 different stitches programmed in, most of which I have never used.

After reading some tip online about how to sew stretch fabrics without a serger, I studied the manual which came with my machine and found that 3 of the 50 stitches were in fact ‘stretch stitches’

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Look at numbers 5 and 18 – they don’t look very interesting in a diagram but I they are both ‘stretch’ stitches and therefore interesting for my project.  Number 5 is for seams, works like zig zag stitch but better because the seam lies flatter, 18 is a stronger stitch, ideal for jeans I thought.  I will be using these stitches again and also reading more of the manual.

The method was quite quick and easy to use, I had it finished in a day which is unusual for me.  Only issue was adjusting the tension for some of the thicker parts around the waistband.

I could just about pull the trousers up without any fastenings but adding a zip from the donor trousers made it easier.

I also added the back pockets from the black trousers.

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After a bit of loose thread tidying they were ready.

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Dress to top refashion

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Dress before any work

A friend gave me a number of items to refashion, one of them was this dress.

The fabric was a very light and stretchy 96% viscose 4% elastane, made in India.

 

The maker was the Spanish brand Indiwoman by individual.

My friend said she liked the fabric of this dress but it didn’t hang right, and when I tried it on I could see what she meant.

While not terrible, it was a bit too short and had an unflattering belly area.  Also while I do like a wrap top I usually end up sewing them shut to avoid the inevitable bra revealing gape.

The shoulders and sleeves were good so I was going to keep them.

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First stage was to unpick the seam at the waist to free up the top section.

I sewed the wrap front shut to make a regular V neck and trimmed off the excess.

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Let me say now, I strongly believe in trying on at every stage of a refashion.  When I don’t try on I make mistakes.  I must have tried this top on about 20 times during the course of the refashion process and don’t regret any of them.

I was hoping to make a dress by adding an alternative skirt section.  This was mainly because I already have a lot of tops.

I auditioned a rather attractive table runner  bought in a jumble sale a couple of years ago.

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Although tempted, and the resulting dress would have been dramatic, in the end I decided that because the fabric of the original dress was so light, there was a danger of it being pulled down by the weight of any heavier fabric.  I also may not be brave enough to wear a table cloth out to dinner.

So it had to be a top.

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I cut off the bottom section of the dress below the pockets.  I know pockets are useful but not in a top.

Then sewed the bottom of the dress onto the now closed upper section, trimming some length and width to make it the right size.

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I tried this new top on and it looked OK but a bit boring.

I rummaged in my stash for this trim, previously removed from a skirt waistband.

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I draped it around the neck and it looked good, especially the way the point fitted the middle of the V.

After a few goes to get the trim to lie flat when being worn,  I am now happy with the result, hope my friend is too. I am quite pleased the joins are not obvious.

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I wore the top on a recent trip to Northern Ireland

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A fail, a fix, a frill and some flowers

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I had some pink flowery stretch jersey fabric in mind to make up a top using the Walkley pattern, originally given free with a magazine.

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This design is very simple, just 2 pieces the same back and front, but the boat neck was a bit too wide the first time I made it.  Other users of the pattern had also reported the same problem of a too wide neck.

 

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This is the first Walkley  made (from an old t-shirt and contrast viscose)  I found the boat neck too wide.

Some adjustments were made to the shoulders and neck on the pattern which made the neck narrower.  Before cutting out my flowery fabric, which was a rather small piece with no room for error,  I decided to make up a toile to test if the pattern adjustments had worked.

Using a men’s t-shirt from my stash the upper section of the design was constructed, up to just under the armholes.  I am glad I did this because further modifications were needed to correct some gape at the neckline, job done.

 

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top section of pattern after multiple alterations to the neckline and shoulders

 

After a few days had passed,  I wondered if there was some way I could make this practice half piece into a wearable item.  I found a turquoise t-shirt in my stash, cut out the bottom part of the design, and sewed it onto the top half.

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Clearly this was never going to produce a perfect result because you would normally sew the pieces together to make a complete back or front first.  What really spoilt it was that the top t-shirt had a small white stripe in it and the stripe placement at the join hadn’t worked out well.  At first I tried to re-sew the top and bottom halves together along a stripe but this just meant one side of the t-shirt was longer than the other.

The only answer seemed to be to cover up the mess in some way.

I had noticed that a lot of items in the shops at the moment have frills sewn on in a late 70’s sort of way.  A frill in the middle of my creation would do the cover up job perfectly.

I cut out a strip of fabric 4 in wide from the turquoise t-shirt , hemmed it, and stitched it on, pleating as I went along, to make a frill.

The result is erm.. acceptable, it is never going to be anything other than casual wear but too good to go in the bin, I don’t like to waste fabric if I can help it even if its just a couple of old t-shirts.

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The frill placement is not quite straight, so it covers the white lines,  but its not very obvious when its being worn.

Bonus feature:

Here is the other top, for which the one above was a practice.  It is made up in a flowery stretch knit fabric, bought in Norway last year.  Its a photo like cherry blossom print.

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There was some urgency involved in its construction because I was on holiday with a friend when I bought the fabric and was meeting her again very soon, so I had to get this top made quickly if I wasn’t going to miss a showing off opportunity.

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